Pattern Fitting with Confidence Book & DVD: Better Together

Last month, I purchased Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting with Confidence DVD.  I've had the book for ages.  I don't know what I was waiting for in purchasing the dvd (other than my general cheapness, that is)!  While I did ok muddling along following the pretty clear instructions in the book, I had a true aha moment while watching the DVD. 

All pattern alterations are based on changing the pattern measurements to fit your measurements.

And let the church say, "well duh"! LOL

I have read through and tested out the guidelines in De-Mystifying Fit, I purchased and tested out the techniques in the Full Busted? Sew Clothes that Fit! DVD, and while both were supremely helpful, they both involve cutting up the original pattern and using lots of tape.  I am goof-prone and usually need many tries to get something right, so I don't love the thought of cutting up the original pattern for alterations. That's why I like the pivot and slide so much.  I'm set to use the technique to make adjustments to my next sewing project; the video has really helped me understand the book more.

Frankenstorm and an Enforced Work Break

As an East Coast dweller, the kids and I are home due to the frankenstorm Sandy.  The kids' school district cancelled school for Monday and Tuesday on Sunday morning so we will be home until at least Wednesday.  Thank goodness the lights just flickered numerous times last night but we still have power.  My thoughts and prayers go out to those without power and in the flood plane from this storm.  Stay safe all.

I appreciate the rest from being at home an extra day, I especially appreciate that I had time to work on sewing!  I messed up my first invisible zip application on the M6313 stretch woven version, so I ripped them out and re-applied.  Looking much better :).  I cut out two very easy dresses from Burda 7515 which I hope to sew up today.

Burda 7515, view A

Layout check for 2-sleeved Burda 7515

I also finally made my first silk organza purchase (through Dharma Trading - will definitely be using them again) and am tracing the final version of My 1 Dress onto organza this morning!  More pics to follow.

Finished: M6163 (wedding version)

I've been sitting on this review because I laughingly thought I'd post on muslin #3 first.  I made muslin 3 out of a stretch woven, which totally behaved differently than the final dress stretch fabric.



The wedding was last Saturday and I pulled it out & finished the dress.  Yay!  I felt fantastic in this dress -- even though I ignored the neck stabilization then tried to fix it at the last minute.  And I looked great.  Ah, jersey is so forgiving!

This was my first time working with 4-way stretch.  I used a stretch needle for the first time, too.  And of course, I made a bunch of changes to the pattern, which used to look like this...

to try to get it to look like this...

Fitting Changes

I omitted the zipper.  Really, it's stretchy, no zip needed.
I omitted the belt - I always find wrap belts fiddly.

I shortened the back by .5 inch.

I lowered the bust by 1.75 inches.

I folded out 1.25 inches at the underarm.

Pivot and slide FBA of 5 inches.

1 inch high buttock contour adjustment with zero net change adjustment.
I made a square shoulder adjustment.

Style Changes

I lengthened the skirt.
I flared the skirt from the hipline and made it asymmetrical.  I then added a seam at the hipline.

I raised the neckline 2 inches.

I added 4 inches to the bottom of the left bodice.

After muslin #2, I saw that the left skirt back was pulling to the front so I used Kenneth King's suggestion from Jean-ius to straighten the seamline

My version doesn't exactly look like the inspiration, but I'm pleased.  My review is below.

Pattern Description:  McCall's 6163 Close fitting, above mid-knee length dresses with mock wrap front, gathered at left side, collar, collar band, raglan sleeves, side zipper and stitched hems with sleeve length variations.

Pattern Sizing:  Pattern comes in two size ranges (8-16 and 18W-24W).  I originally bought the straight sized pattern but based on the sizing noted in other reviews, I used the plus size pattern.  My version is based on an adjusted 20W.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Umm, not really.  I didn't want the pattern envelope look when I sewed this version – I was looking to make a mock-wrap version of Modcloth's Wrapped Up in Beauty dress.  I based my alteration work on view B (the cap sleeve version).

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yeah, about that.  I didn't use the instructions much.  I only glanced at the instructions for the gathers.  With that said, the pattern is well marked and super easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  Oh, I'm in love with this pattern!  It was soo easy to work with.  I only started out with only 5 pattern pieces.

One nitpicky dislike is that the plus version of the pattern does not mark the back pattern piece as belonging to all views.  I got a little confused between muslin #2 and this project.  But, I'm easily confused J.  One other thing – this neckline is definitely LOW.  I raised the neckline 2 inches based on others' reviews (thanks Cennetta!) and could have raised it another 4 inches.

Fabric Used:  For this version I used a persimmon colored Swiss 4-way stretch knit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I really like the drape and color is just fantastic.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a number of changes to the pattern and detailed them here.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  If things work out the way I want, I will definitely be sewing this again.

If you're on the fence about this pattern, don't be.  Get this pattern!

Conclusion:  Even though I cut corners by not hemming and made a mess of the left wrap which stretched out, I looked really great in this dress at the wedding.  I love this pattern and can see it in many different versions – including woven.