Vogue 8648 - Finished

I finally got around to photographing the skirt yesterday.  This is all that remains from My 1 Dress project of 2012.

Look at all that wrinkling.  I didn't have any wrinkles by muslin 3.  I think I took a wrong turn at the hand-basting of the silk organza underlining.

Eh, I don't love it.

I still love the color and may try to salvage this further.  I also think the skirt needs to be pegged.  I tried to peg the skirt pieces unsuccessfully between muslins 1 and 2, then gave up on the idea.

MORE Wrinkles!  GRR!

Pattern Description: (from pattern envelope – Lined dresses A-F, fitted through bust, mid-knee, have princess seams, bias midriff and back zipper.)

Pattern Sizing: I started with a size 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't follow them. I sewed along to the Craftsy Couture Dress class.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the idea of a princess seam sheath dress with a hem that is 2 inches below my knee. I dislike pretty much everything else. Even after making 3 muslins, I only salvaged the skirt portion of the dress.

Fabric Used: A teal blue poly-rayon suiting with some stretch that I had in the stash for eons and silk organza.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a raft of adjustments The details are in the following posts.

Muslin 1
Muslin 2
Muslin 3

I also added a back pleat to the hem of the skirt.

After putting together the final dress, the bodice still looked a hot mess. I ripped the bodice from the skirt to try to salvage the skirt. I added a grosgrain ribbon stay inside the skirt waistline to keep it from stretching. Since the seam allowances were so large, I just turned them under and used them as a facing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I would not on both counts. I am not sure this is the right sheath pattern for some with a big front and back porch who is taller than average.

Conclusion: I think working with this pattern was an unnecessary test of my perseverance with an underwhelming result.

My 1 Dress: I'm Through

Like Madame Blueberry, I'm through with Vogue 8648.

I made THREE, count them 3, muslins. 

Muslin 1
Muslin 2
Muslin 3

I thought after all that fitting work, my final dress would be a snap.  But no.  The bodice still wasn't right.  Same bra, check.  Haven't gained or lost weight, check.  Hand sewed in the underlining for umpteen hours, check.  Hand basted the dress together, check.  Final product outstanding, not check.  I don't know what happened, but the sleeves just would not sit right no matter how much adjusting I did.  And adjust, adjust, adjust I did.

I wanted to toss the whole thing in the trash.  But, like a bad relationship, I thought about all the hours I invested in this project, and with the fact that I l.o.v.e. the fabric color.  I'm ripping the bodice from the skirt.  My 1 Dress is going to become a skirt this weekend.  Finished project to follow.

I'm a Top Hourglass!

I've always wondered how to categorize my shape in the grand scheme of body shapes.  I'm tall with long legs and a running back's shoulders which would evoke an inverted triangle.

Source

But then I factor in my chest, hips, and waist.  If I wore most of the low-slung, tunic-y outfits recommended for inverted triangles, I'd look pregnant or even larger than I am.  But I don't see myself as a true hourglass because my shoulders make me look larger on top than on the bottom (even though my full bust and hip measurements are only 1 in apart) and my short-waistedness.

Enter the top hourglass.  I came across this designation while browsing the internet one day.  This, I think is the closest to my body shape as I've seen.  You know, except for the "gently sloping shoulders" part.

Source

The descriptions and style tips in the links below were helpful to me to see why I like to wear certain styles more than others.  Cinched waists are my friends along with wide-legged pants to offset the rack of doom :).

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Versatile Blogger Award

A big thank you to Erika of Blogging While Growing for nominating me for a Versatile Blogger award.  If I have the instructions right, I am to tell 7 things about myself and pass this very nice award to 15 other bloggers.  Here goes:

7 things
1.  I'm a single mom whose secret dream is to home-school my kids. Hence the title of this blog :).

2. On average, I have moved every 2 years since I turned 18. That is a lot of moving for someone who grew up in 1 house.

3. I've been blogging since 2007 after one of my grad school instructors asked the class how we were going to change the world. My first blog was all about re-education and social conditioning. This blog is about sewing and life. It's fun where the other was more journal-esque (and is long gone from the web).

4. I love the 1940's.

5. I don't really watch tv & never watch the news. It's always bad/horrific: "If it bleeds, it leads."

6. I am the first person in my family to graduate from college.

7. I've been told I sound very "white". People who meet me in person after only hearing me are shocked! Shocked! LOL

15 bloggers
I actually only have 11:
1. RiAnge Creations -- Angela makes all her projects look effortless.  And she belly dances too!
2. New Vintage Lady -- Shelley is one of the only other women of color I have encountered online who enjoys swing dance (and was brave enough to take it up pretty seriously for a while).  She also sells vintage patterns and repros on etsy.
3. On the Road to Sew Wear -- I've been following BeaJay's blog since she started the Plus Size Pattern Pyramid.  She's been working steadily on her sewing skills and just completed a sheath dress TNT.
4. As I Said -- I enjoy LsaSpacey's posts.  She did some great work last year on getting pants to fit correctly.
5. The Flowery Skirt -- I first encountered Barbara's work on Wardrobe Refashion.  She has such a wonderful way with using what's at hand to create something beautiful.  And she just completed her "high fashion pattern maker" diploma!
6. The Happiness in your Life -- I enjoy Doe Zantamanta's inspirational quotes.
7. Faye's Sewing Adventure -- Faye is so gracious and talented.  She recently hosted the 2013 Essential Top Sew-Along with a great turnout and has previously hosted the Carnival of Skirts.
8. Simple Inspirations -- All of Myra's projects fit her so well and look so chic on her.
9. Brenda's Sewing Nook -- Brenda is so technically proficient and her pieces always fit her to perfection.  And she just became a grandmother recently.
10.  I Might Sew...If I Had More Time -- Amy was the first person to comment on this blog.  She makes some of the most beautiful knit pieces.  She has even begun making her own designs.
11.  Smoking Needles -- I really enjoy the real-life wearable garments Knitmachinequeen creates.  Along with her foray into bra-making!

Happy sewing everybody.

Butterick 4662 - Finished

Oh, what a past two weeks it's been!  I took the photos in this post the morning before I left for a job interview in South Carolina!  My last two PatternReview.com reviews were done on the road with spotty internet service.  That was something I don't think I'll repeat anytime soon.

I'm glad I was able to challenge myself and enter the 2013 Spring Pantone Colors contest.  After an interesting learning process (*read "failure"*, but one I still really want to wear*) with V8751 due to user alteration error, I wound up finishing Butterick 4662.  This is an OOP pattern from 2005.  My review is below.

Pattern Description: OOP Butterick wide-leg pants pattern with length variations and high, faced waist.

Pattern Sizing: I started with a size 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Oh, yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't use them; The instructions looked straightforward enough.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like how simple and elegant the pattern is. I also l .o.v.e. the high waist & wide legs of the pattern.

Fabric Used: I used a Grayed Jade linen fashion fabric and poly organza for the underlining. Both fabrics are from my stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made several changes: I used the back crotch Curve and side seam stitch lines from my Jeanius drafted pants. I also added 5" to length, moved the zipper to side seam, and re-drafted the waist facings.

The biggest change is that I flat-lined the pants with poly organza. I really like the result from the flat -lining/underlining .

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will make these
again & would recommend the pattern to others if they can get a copy. I noticed some for sale online.

Conclusion: Other than the pattern work and trying a new technique, This pattern is easy & would be a great intro pants pattern for beginners. I feel like a grown-up version of me in these pants!

I want to add a big "thank you" to La Sewista for putting photos of her flat-lining process on her blog.  I read about it in Issue 42 from my Threads Archive DVD, but for the life of me couldn't figure out the wrapping part.  As you can see from the close-up photo above, I got it!  And I really like the finished effect.

Erika, the next post is for you!  Thanks for the Versatile Blogger award, I haven't forgotten :).

Vogue 2611 - Finished

I wanted to share this in time for the 2013 Essential Top Sew-along over on Faye's blog, but it didn't quite happen.  But it's done now :).
I spent two weekends ago grading the pattern and cutting out the fabric.  I'm pretty pleased with my pattern matching, too. I started sewing the top last Tuesday night, but had so many problems with skipped stitches, then no stitches.  This fabric was like iron to sew!  After many gyrations, I wound up using my largest ballpoint needle (size 16) and that worked out fine.

I guess all that pattern work paid off!  And my nagging poor Sigrid over at PatternReview over the Pantone colors contest.  She is so gracious, is Sigrid! 

Pattern Description:  Out-of-print Misses semi-fitted top with neckline variations.  I made view B, a wrap top with tucks, tie-ends, and long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:  I started with size 18, which is the largest size the pattern came in.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, I think it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Super easy.  And I actually followed them (mostly) this time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the front tucks in the pattern along with the cut on sleeves.  I like the back tucks as well.  I guess I like everything about it.

Fabric Used:  An ITY print jersey with Tender Shoots, African Violet, and Linen featured from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:  I graded the pattern from size 18 using Lynda Maynard’s technique outlined in De-Mystifying Fit.  I rotated darts from a base wrap bodice I knew fit to tucks.  I raised the neckline 2.5” (it could do with another 1”, maybe 2” more).  I also used clear elastic in the neckline to eliminate gaping (it works perfectly).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Oh yes, I love how this looks and fits, although I will make a bigger square shoulder adjustment next time.  I’ve thought about using this pattern for years and am so glad I finally did.  I would recommend it to others who like wrap-style tops for sure.

Conclusion:  If you like wrap-style tops and can get your hands on this pattern, make it!

This is how I wore it to my bday dinner yesterday. (Trying to keep my heels out of the soft ground...)

Pantone 2013 Contest

I bit the bullet & entered the Spring 2013 Pantone color contest on PatternReview. I used this fabric to test my pattern  adjustments to Vogue 2611. The more I worked with the fabric,  the more I wonder whether two of these  colors qualify?